Canada: Day 3 - Hope to Princeton

There's more things I forgot to bring - hair bobbles (borrowed one from Tan but it's too loose and I keep losing it); earplugs (I really can't live without them no matter how tired) and suncream (for obvious reasons).

Everything comes in packs of 10 or 15.  I throw away most of the ear plugs and some of the bobbles (though elastic bands are always useful so many stay).  I buy a stick of suncream as it's the only thing in a small bottle so I can colour in my limbs. The nice lady in the shop explains it's "for the face", I rudely point out that it will go wherever I put it, I'm so frustrated about the over-shopping.

It's all delaying that innevitable first climb up Highway 1 to the Crowsnest with its memories of thinking, "are we supposed to be on this" as we scale a 3-lane "freeway"(motorway) section but sure enough there's bike symbols on the hard-shoulder.  It's a relief to turn onto the Crowsnest past and leave the 3 lanes behind and I just focus on mashing the pedals as far as the Hope Slide Memorial which I decide I don't need to revisit.

I'm peckish when I pass Sunshine Valley at 10:30am but I decide not to stop as I'm going downhill, freewheeling and I've already missed the turn.  I ride on nibbling on the supplies I have with me and knowing that Manning Park resort is also ahead.

On and on... to Allison Pass summit where I have a slightly annoyed looking selfie and continue on some more.  I kind of know this doesn't let up but the short shallow downhills followed by more climbing... they're starting to drag on.

There are road signs, boasting of "Canada's 10 year plan" to build roads and keep people in work.  All yay! But they seem to be in the same places they were last time so I just wonder if this is a genuine Forth-Bridge project which needs re-surfacing and rebuilding on a regular 10 year cycle.  I doubt I'll be back in another 10 years to find out.

Finally, I crest a descent to Manning Park and the lodge looms into view.  I lock up DB and head inside to find pasties, chocolate ice cream and coffee with some extras on the side.  I've eaten every bit of food I own except the desiccated emergency food and I'm starving.  I sit in the shade, wilt and look at my lovely lovely bike.  A group of Americans are crowding around her and marvelling at my set up.  One guy refers to her as "Some European thing" and my blood boils but I'm too tired for a conversation so I stay in the shade of the building.

Finally he starts peering at my Apidura wondering, "how does it stay up there?" and I can't resist saying, "by magic".  He asks "Oh, is this yours?" and when I answer "Yes and explain about straps under saddles and harnesses",  that seems to be enough for him and he wanders off.  Great to have some human interaction.

Inside I grab some more food and then head back out into the sunshine.  At least there's a bit of downhill before going back up again.  The forest wanes into Sunday summit where the trees become more spread-out and sparse, giving way to brush, rocky faces and quarries.  It looks like a valley has been dammed for flooding.  The dam in still in construction and looks hideous.  Its surface is like the moon compared to the surrounding pink rock and green trees.  It makes me say, "oh no Trudeau, you di'nnt", but you have to watch "The Last Leg" in England to get that one.

I finally come across the gut-wrenching whoop-dinger of a descent I have been looking for all day.  As I approach it a logging truck pulls out of a truckstop behind me and then its draft whoofs me along upto 40kph as I reach the top of the descent.  I drop into a tuck and just as I've started to really enjoy the wide open road and sweeping bends, the passenger in a camper across the road screams "Yee haw" at me and I whoop down the rest of the descent.  Max speed 68km/hr. (43mph).

The best thing about that descent is Princeton is right at the bottom.  For the first time this trip I am scared by wildlife as a massive red deer, grazing by the road side sees me and is spooked.  Thankfully there's no traffic near me and I pull over to give her room but she bounds off in the opposite direction.  The village is abounding with monk deer so it must be a real thing here.

I rumble up at the nearest campsite to town so I can go and get myself some food and check in, completely spent.

Miles:84
Climbing:2062m
Time: 8h:25m